This evening, I bought a fluorescent light system that I plan to use in my basement. It consists of a 4-lamp Tek-Light T5 fixture; four 6500K (degrees Kelvin) 4-foot 54-watt bulbs; a Wire Suspension Hanging Kit, and Dual Outlet Digital Timer. With $57 shipping, the entire system cost me $381.
I know I could have gotten a cheap 4-lamp fluorescent fixture for a lot less, but I was interested in getting the T5 high-efficiency lamps with a reflector that was optimized to reflect as much light onto the plants as possible. The Tek-Light was advertised to be 95% reflective. The T5 type of fluorescent is a more modern type than the common cheap fluorescents one would use as a shop light. They have solid-state ballasts that do not generate as much heat. Another selling point was that they emit 92.59 lumens/watt, as compared to the common 40-watt T12 fluroescents, which emit just 31.5 lumens/watt.
I found some less expensive T5 fixtures with 4 lamps in my internet shopping, but when I saw the shipping charges were fairly high for my first choice, I did a little investigation and found that although it was the cheapest one, it weighed about 148 pounds. It would be rather difficult for me to install that one. The next two fixtures I considered, which included the one I bought, weighed only 78 pounds.
The fixture came with 4 lamps that I could select as some combination of the wide-spectrum (or "cool") 6500K lamps or the "warm" 3000K lamps that concentrate their radiation in the yellow-orange part of the visible spectrum. It's said that the "cool" lamps are appropriate for plants in the vegetative growth stage, while the "warm" lamps are appropriate for plants in the blossoming and fruiting stages. I got 4 of the 6500K bulbs, rather than mixing them, because my plan is to use these lights to start seedlings (for outdoors planting) and raise lettuce. I plan to use other types of lights for the blossoming and fruiting stages of my tomato, cucumber, and pepper plants. However, I may set up a few tomato plants under these lights just to see how they fare.
The wire suspension system is supposed to make it easy to adjust the height of the lamps above the plants as they grow. This is especially important when using fluorescents, since they are not as powerful as the high-intensity discharge (HID) types of lights and have to be continually adjusted to be only several inches above the plants so that the illumination will not be too much disipated with distance. It is often explained in the various articles I've seen on hydroponics lighting systems that light will dissipate in intensity over distance by the square of the distance. This is strictly true when you have an idealized point source of light. It is essentially a statement of the law of conservation of energy. The intensity (proportional to energy) of the light dissipates by the square of the distance from the point source, but the surface area of an imaginary sphere centered at the point source increases as the square of the distance. The two considerations balance each other so that the same total amount of energy is leaving a constantly expanding sphere, no matter what the distance. However, if you have a fixed area of garden space, the amount of light energy falling on it lessens as the square of the distance from the point source. The reason is that the fixed area represents an increasingly smaller portion of the imaginary sphere surrounding the point source, as the distance increases.
However, with distributed sources of light, and a reflector that focuses the emitted light, the light energy is concentrated as it travels in the direction the reflector is facing, so that the light energy reaching the plants does not fall off as fast as it would if there was just a point source. Still, from what I have read, there just isn't as much light coming from the fluorescents that one can afford to waste it. Since the fluorescents are particularly low in heat generation, we can maximize the effects of the light coming from the fluorescents by continually moving them to be only several inches from the plants.
The timer I bought should allow me to set up a daily cycle of lights - on for 18 hours - and off for 6 hours. If I use the lights to grow a few tomato plants, I might use the timer to change the cycle to 12 hours on and 12 off, which is suggested to be a more appropriate cycle for the blossoming-fruiting stages.
Hopefully, I will receive this lighting system in time to plant my seeds by March 1. That should give me the 2 months I need to raise the plants I need to plant outdoors.
Sunday, February 18, 2007
Saturday, February 17, 2007
Hydroponics Decisions
I'm getting close to the point when I would like to make some decisions about my hydroponics projects. Here is what I'm thinking so far:
o I would like to experiment some with hydroponics, rather than launch a master plan with all the details already worked out. There is a bewildering variety of hydroponics techniques, offerings of hydroponics systems, hydroponics lighting systems, nutrient packages, etc. I may not be able to arrive at the best system for me ab initio. It will take some experimentation, maybe going up some blind alleys. Maybe it's best not to commit all my available resources to a single hydroponics approach at the outset.
o I know how to grow plants for a conventional soil-based garden, and pretty much know what I need to do to get it started. It's doubtful that I could get a hydroponics system into production faster than it will take to get my conventional summer garden into production. Therefore, attempts to get my hydroponics efforts to the production phase should be aimed at achieving production by next Fall and Winter.
o I may not get started with hydroponics right away, but the lighting equipment I get to support my soil-based garden might serve a dual purpose - i.e., use a fluorescent lighting system to start conventional seedlings; then use the fluorescents to grow lettuce and other greens hydropoically. I would hope ot have a greenhouse-based hydroponics system started by late summner so that I could reach a hydroponics production phase by the time of the first frost in the Fall. Relatively low power fluorescent lighting may be suitable for purposes of starting seedlings for the summer garden and for growing greens, but I have learned that tomatoes, peppers, and other vegetables that require blossoming and fruiting need higher intensities of light than can be provided by fluorescents. I can get the fluorescents first and wait until later to get some higher power lights.
o Tomatoes will be a basic crop for me. The best hydroponics techniques for growing tomatoes were recommended in one source to be the Drip method and the Ebb and Flow method. I might obtain some relatively inexpensive "Plug 'n Play" (or ready-made complete) systems featuring the "Drip" and "Ebb and Flow" systems to see what works out best for me. Maybe I could try one system in the basememnt and one in the greenhouse.
o Tomatoes and cucumbers were said to require about the same resources, in terms of nutrients, amounts of light, etc. Maybe I will try to grow these together in the same systems. I would also like to grow some zucchini squash along with the tomatoes and cucumbers. Perhaps zucchini and cucumbers are sufficiently alike in their requirements that I could combine the zucchini with the tomato and cucumber efforts. It may be stretching it a bit, but I will see if it is practical to grow sweet peppers with these other three vegetables in the same system.
o I also would like to try to grow some vegetables in the greenhouse using soil-based methods over the Fall and Winter, as well as hydroponically. My idea for using a soil-based method is to put some Earthboxes in the greenhouse. They have water reservoirs built into them, so that one doesn't have to water the plants every day. In addition to helping to manage watering the plants, the mass of water in the reservoirs could help to buffer temperature changes in the greenhouse between daylight and nighttime hours. I would plan to get about 5 or 6 Earthboxes. I will seek to find out more about what other people may have experienced using Earthboxes in a greenhouse.
o Hydroponics lighting systems can get very expensive. The more powerful the lights, the greater the area that can be covered effectively. It may be better to get two or more lights that can be arranged in a narrow row, that might be the case in a greenhouse, than to get a single very high-powered light that covers a large square or circular area, all of which may not contain plants. Getting several lower-powered lights also may allow for using different types of lights for different kinds of plants. This flexibility would not exist if I invested in a single higher-cost hydroponics lighting system.
o I would like to experiment some with hydroponics, rather than launch a master plan with all the details already worked out. There is a bewildering variety of hydroponics techniques, offerings of hydroponics systems, hydroponics lighting systems, nutrient packages, etc. I may not be able to arrive at the best system for me ab initio. It will take some experimentation, maybe going up some blind alleys. Maybe it's best not to commit all my available resources to a single hydroponics approach at the outset.
o I know how to grow plants for a conventional soil-based garden, and pretty much know what I need to do to get it started. It's doubtful that I could get a hydroponics system into production faster than it will take to get my conventional summer garden into production. Therefore, attempts to get my hydroponics efforts to the production phase should be aimed at achieving production by next Fall and Winter.
o I may not get started with hydroponics right away, but the lighting equipment I get to support my soil-based garden might serve a dual purpose - i.e., use a fluorescent lighting system to start conventional seedlings; then use the fluorescents to grow lettuce and other greens hydropoically. I would hope ot have a greenhouse-based hydroponics system started by late summner so that I could reach a hydroponics production phase by the time of the first frost in the Fall. Relatively low power fluorescent lighting may be suitable for purposes of starting seedlings for the summer garden and for growing greens, but I have learned that tomatoes, peppers, and other vegetables that require blossoming and fruiting need higher intensities of light than can be provided by fluorescents. I can get the fluorescents first and wait until later to get some higher power lights.
o Tomatoes will be a basic crop for me. The best hydroponics techniques for growing tomatoes were recommended in one source to be the Drip method and the Ebb and Flow method. I might obtain some relatively inexpensive "Plug 'n Play" (or ready-made complete) systems featuring the "Drip" and "Ebb and Flow" systems to see what works out best for me. Maybe I could try one system in the basememnt and one in the greenhouse.
o Tomatoes and cucumbers were said to require about the same resources, in terms of nutrients, amounts of light, etc. Maybe I will try to grow these together in the same systems. I would also like to grow some zucchini squash along with the tomatoes and cucumbers. Perhaps zucchini and cucumbers are sufficiently alike in their requirements that I could combine the zucchini with the tomato and cucumber efforts. It may be stretching it a bit, but I will see if it is practical to grow sweet peppers with these other three vegetables in the same system.
o I also would like to try to grow some vegetables in the greenhouse using soil-based methods over the Fall and Winter, as well as hydroponically. My idea for using a soil-based method is to put some Earthboxes in the greenhouse. They have water reservoirs built into them, so that one doesn't have to water the plants every day. In addition to helping to manage watering the plants, the mass of water in the reservoirs could help to buffer temperature changes in the greenhouse between daylight and nighttime hours. I would plan to get about 5 or 6 Earthboxes. I will seek to find out more about what other people may have experienced using Earthboxes in a greenhouse.
o Hydroponics lighting systems can get very expensive. The more powerful the lights, the greater the area that can be covered effectively. It may be better to get two or more lights that can be arranged in a narrow row, that might be the case in a greenhouse, than to get a single very high-powered light that covers a large square or circular area, all of which may not contain plants. Getting several lower-powered lights also may allow for using different types of lights for different kinds of plants. This flexibility would not exist if I invested in a single higher-cost hydroponics lighting system.
Monday, February 12, 2007
One Greenhouse on the Way
I ordered a greenhouse. I had decided on the Riga IVs model, after considering two other brands. The tiebreaker was the dutch door and large rear window on the Riga, that allowed lots of ventilation, while maintaining a barrier to keep my dogs out when they were in the yard. Of course, most of my adult white GSDs could easily jump the 3- or 4-foot height presented by the lower portion of the Dutch door, or even jump into the greenhouse through the rear window. The fact is, they wouldn't, because they are conditioned to respect such barriers.
The greenhouse should provide lots of room for my plants. I originally had focused on a 9' x 12' greenhouse. The Riga IVs is about 8' x 14', but that provides for pretty much the same 108 sqft as a 9' x 12' model. This is even better, because I can face the long side of the greenhouse to the South and get more sun exposure than if I had a shorter, but deeper, model.
After selecting the Riga, I narrowed the vendors down to two internet sales sites, 4SeasonGreenhouse.com and Outdora.com. Outdora had the better price by about $100, at $3099 for the Riga IVs and its appropriate base. But, 4SeasonGreenhouse had a button to push for price matching. When I pressed it, a blank email screen came up with the Subject field already filled in: Price Match. I briefly described what I was planning to purchase, and what the Outdora.com price was. In just over an hour, I received an email from Tim at 4SeasonGreenhouse.com saying that they planned to match and better the Outdora.com price. After a few more emails back and forth, I received 4SeasonGreenhouse's offer: $3025 for the same products, and with shipping still free. I called Tim at 4SeasonGreenhouse.com and discussed the rest of my order with him.
Along with the greenhouse and base, I bought some metal hooks and plastic hangers designed to be used with the Riga; an aluminum-coated shade cloth to keep the greenhouse cool in the summertime; a 10,000 BTU propane-powered heater; a digital min/max thermometer with hygrometer; and an anchor system. These items are detailed, as follows:
o The 20 metal hooks and 10 plastic hangers are designed to be suspended from the joints in the Riga frame, so that no holes have to be drilled in the frame ($55.44, after Tim threw in an extra set of hooks).
o The 14' x 8' Aluminet shade cloth is more effective at cooling the greenhouse when direct rays are reflected away from it, but is effective in reflecting low-angle radiation into the greenhouse, thus keeping the greenhouse warmer when the sun is not as direct, and cooler when the rays are more direct. The reflection of light into the greenhouse for low angles happens because the Aluminet fabric is a more open weave than a black shade cloth that is designed to absorb radiation, but not reflect it. The Aluminet shade cloth is about $50 more expensive than the corresponding black shade cloth I had been considering, but Tim says it is worth it. An explanation of this is at:
http://www.4seasongreenhouse.com/aluminet-shade-cloth-8x12-p-701.html
o The digital min/max greenhouse thermometer with hygrometer will be used to manage the temperature and humidity in the greenhouse. It not only registers the current temperature, but displays the highest and lowest temperatures reached over an extended period of time. This is important to ensure that the heating and ventilation provisions are adequate. Some plants can't stand very high temperatures while others can be damaged at low temperatures. Lettuce, for example, does well at in a 50 to 60 degree environment, but tomatoes need higher temperatures to bear fruit. The hygrometer would be used to check humidity, too high levels of humidity could promote fungal growth.
o The anchor system will be used at the four corners of the base unit, and midway along each long side of the base, to anchor the base into the soil so it isn't as likely to be blown away.
o PROBLEM! The propane heater was said to be a better fit than an electric one. Tim explained that the typical 1500-watt electric heater puts out only about 5000 BTU and would not provide enough heat for the fairly large greenhouse I was purchasing. Tim said the 10,000-BTU propane heater I ordered does not produce enough CO2 to require venting. I guessed at the time that this was because the greenhouse does not maintain a perfect air-tight seal from the outside, and there is typically enough exchange of air with the outside for a 10,000-BTU heater, to obviate the need for venting. However, I did a little research after ordering and found a site that said their 10,000-BTU Blue Flame propane heater would not work properly in an area much less than 300 sqft (http://www.heatershop.com/propane_space_heaters.html). The safety features would continually be shutting down the heater if the area served was much less than 300 sqft. Since the Riga IVs is only 108 sqft, this does not bode well for successful propane heating. I emailed and called back to Tim immediately and am waiting to hear from him on this issue. I may have to switch to a vented propane heater.
The greenhouse should provide lots of room for my plants. I originally had focused on a 9' x 12' greenhouse. The Riga IVs is about 8' x 14', but that provides for pretty much the same 108 sqft as a 9' x 12' model. This is even better, because I can face the long side of the greenhouse to the South and get more sun exposure than if I had a shorter, but deeper, model.
After selecting the Riga, I narrowed the vendors down to two internet sales sites, 4SeasonGreenhouse.com and Outdora.com. Outdora had the better price by about $100, at $3099 for the Riga IVs and its appropriate base. But, 4SeasonGreenhouse had a button to push for price matching. When I pressed it, a blank email screen came up with the Subject field already filled in: Price Match. I briefly described what I was planning to purchase, and what the Outdora.com price was. In just over an hour, I received an email from Tim at 4SeasonGreenhouse.com saying that they planned to match and better the Outdora.com price. After a few more emails back and forth, I received 4SeasonGreenhouse's offer: $3025 for the same products, and with shipping still free. I called Tim at 4SeasonGreenhouse.com and discussed the rest of my order with him.
Along with the greenhouse and base, I bought some metal hooks and plastic hangers designed to be used with the Riga; an aluminum-coated shade cloth to keep the greenhouse cool in the summertime; a 10,000 BTU propane-powered heater; a digital min/max thermometer with hygrometer; and an anchor system. These items are detailed, as follows:
o The 20 metal hooks and 10 plastic hangers are designed to be suspended from the joints in the Riga frame, so that no holes have to be drilled in the frame ($55.44, after Tim threw in an extra set of hooks).
o The 14' x 8' Aluminet shade cloth is more effective at cooling the greenhouse when direct rays are reflected away from it, but is effective in reflecting low-angle radiation into the greenhouse, thus keeping the greenhouse warmer when the sun is not as direct, and cooler when the rays are more direct. The reflection of light into the greenhouse for low angles happens because the Aluminet fabric is a more open weave than a black shade cloth that is designed to absorb radiation, but not reflect it. The Aluminet shade cloth is about $50 more expensive than the corresponding black shade cloth I had been considering, but Tim says it is worth it. An explanation of this is at:
http://www.4seasongreenhouse.com/aluminet-shade-cloth-8x12-p-701.html
o The digital min/max greenhouse thermometer with hygrometer will be used to manage the temperature and humidity in the greenhouse. It not only registers the current temperature, but displays the highest and lowest temperatures reached over an extended period of time. This is important to ensure that the heating and ventilation provisions are adequate. Some plants can't stand very high temperatures while others can be damaged at low temperatures. Lettuce, for example, does well at in a 50 to 60 degree environment, but tomatoes need higher temperatures to bear fruit. The hygrometer would be used to check humidity, too high levels of humidity could promote fungal growth.
o The anchor system will be used at the four corners of the base unit, and midway along each long side of the base, to anchor the base into the soil so it isn't as likely to be blown away.
o PROBLEM! The propane heater was said to be a better fit than an electric one. Tim explained that the typical 1500-watt electric heater puts out only about 5000 BTU and would not provide enough heat for the fairly large greenhouse I was purchasing. Tim said the 10,000-BTU propane heater I ordered does not produce enough CO2 to require venting. I guessed at the time that this was because the greenhouse does not maintain a perfect air-tight seal from the outside, and there is typically enough exchange of air with the outside for a 10,000-BTU heater, to obviate the need for venting. However, I did a little research after ordering and found a site that said their 10,000-BTU Blue Flame propane heater would not work properly in an area much less than 300 sqft (http://www.heatershop.com/propane_space_heaters.html). The safety features would continually be shutting down the heater if the area served was much less than 300 sqft. Since the Riga IVs is only 108 sqft, this does not bode well for successful propane heating. I emailed and called back to Tim immediately and am waiting to hear from him on this issue. I may have to switch to a vented propane heater.
Sunday, February 11, 2007
Shopping for a Greenhouse Kit
I quickly learned that there are many purveyors of greenhouse kits that can be shipped in boxes and assembled in one's backyard. Frames can be made of wood, resin/plastic, or aluminum. Various shapes are available, including A-frames, barn-type roofs, onion shapes; stand-alone and leanto models. Bases can be fashioned by the homeowner from treated wood or can be bought as fitted galvanized steel bases provided by the same greenhouse manufacturer. Coverings can be polyethylene film, single- or double-layered panes of solid polycarbonate, or even glass. The double-layered polycarbonate is constructed like corrugated cardboard and insulates better than single layers. The polycarbonate panes can be of varying thicknesses. Single-layered polycarbonate panes can be clearer to see through, but don't insulate as well. A clearer type of double-layered polycarbonate may allow one to see clearer through it, but can allow hot spots on leaves because it doesn't diffuse light as well. The thicker polycarbonate may be more expensive, but can save on heating costs. A larger greenhouse can provide more space for growing plants, but can cost more to heat.
In short, there are lots of trade-off decisions to make. The more you can afford to spend; the greater the number of trade-offs. Here's what I decided so far:
o I will purchase both a greenhouse and a hydroponic system. The hydroponic system will come with a lighting system that will let me get my seeds started in the basement; starting the seeds in the conventional manner though, not through hydroponics. After I have more experience with hydroponics, I can consider starting seeds using the hydroponics.
o I want a greenhouse with dimensions approximating 9' x 12'.
o I want glazing with at least 8mm thick double-layer polycarbonate, to lower heating costs, as compared to the 4mm or 6mm glazing I saw on some kits.
o I will buy the manufacturer's steel base, rather than try to build my own from wood.
o I will investigate using a greenhouse heater that uses liquid propane (LP), rather than electric power, because I read that LP heaters might be less costly to operate. If that is the case, I would consider extending a gas line from my existing submerged LP tank that I already have installed to power my home's emergency backup electric power system. (I need to check on how venting is accomplished when you heat a greenhouse with gas.)
o Also, I will try to ensure that whatever electric power is supplied to the greenhouse and to my hydroponics system will be connected to the emergency power system, to save my plants if there is an electric power outage.
I am about to choose now between the following models:
o Juliana Premium 9.9 (at http://www.greenhouseoutlet.com/premium.shtml) that I can get for $3,099, including free greenhouse base, electric greenhouse heater, and shipping. This has 10mm double-layer polycarbonate with a mill finish aluminum frame.
o Nexus Cultivator Premier (at http://www.mynewgreenhousepurchase.com/) that I can get for $2,675. It has only 8mm double-layered polycarbonate, but includes a white-painted aluminum frame that is an expensive option for the Juliana greenhouse. Shipping and steel base are included at this price, but I would have to buy a heater separately (which would support my going for a gas heater, if that proves practical and desirable). The white painted aluminum is said to make it easier to keep the greenhouse cool when outside temperatures rise above 95 degrees F.
o Riga IV s (at http://www.outdora.com/13575riga4s.html) that I can get for $3,098.35, including a steel base, with free shipping. This has 8mm double-layered polycarbonate on the sides, and 10mm double-layered polycarbonate on the ends. Unique to its onion-shaped design is a dutch door and a big rear window that can allow cooling during the summer, while discouraging our dogs from entering when the lower portion of the dutch door is closed.
I am leaning towards the Riga IV s greenhouse, even though it is not the least expensive, because it is the only one with a dutch door that will make it easier to keep the greenhouse cool, while living with our dogs. This deal also permits the freedom to choose a gas heater if it is found desirable to do so. I plan to put the order in for the Riga greenhouse this week if nothing else arises.
In short, there are lots of trade-off decisions to make. The more you can afford to spend; the greater the number of trade-offs. Here's what I decided so far:
o I will purchase both a greenhouse and a hydroponic system. The hydroponic system will come with a lighting system that will let me get my seeds started in the basement; starting the seeds in the conventional manner though, not through hydroponics. After I have more experience with hydroponics, I can consider starting seeds using the hydroponics.
o I want a greenhouse with dimensions approximating 9' x 12'.
o I want glazing with at least 8mm thick double-layer polycarbonate, to lower heating costs, as compared to the 4mm or 6mm glazing I saw on some kits.
o I will buy the manufacturer's steel base, rather than try to build my own from wood.
o I will investigate using a greenhouse heater that uses liquid propane (LP), rather than electric power, because I read that LP heaters might be less costly to operate. If that is the case, I would consider extending a gas line from my existing submerged LP tank that I already have installed to power my home's emergency backup electric power system. (I need to check on how venting is accomplished when you heat a greenhouse with gas.)
o Also, I will try to ensure that whatever electric power is supplied to the greenhouse and to my hydroponics system will be connected to the emergency power system, to save my plants if there is an electric power outage.
I am about to choose now between the following models:
o Juliana Premium 9.9 (at http://www.greenhouseoutlet.com/premium.shtml) that I can get for $3,099, including free greenhouse base, electric greenhouse heater, and shipping. This has 10mm double-layer polycarbonate with a mill finish aluminum frame.
o Nexus Cultivator Premier (at http://www.mynewgreenhousepurchase.com/) that I can get for $2,675. It has only 8mm double-layered polycarbonate, but includes a white-painted aluminum frame that is an expensive option for the Juliana greenhouse. Shipping and steel base are included at this price, but I would have to buy a heater separately (which would support my going for a gas heater, if that proves practical and desirable). The white painted aluminum is said to make it easier to keep the greenhouse cool when outside temperatures rise above 95 degrees F.
o Riga IV s (at http://www.outdora.com/13575riga4s.html) that I can get for $3,098.35, including a steel base, with free shipping. This has 8mm double-layered polycarbonate on the sides, and 10mm double-layered polycarbonate on the ends. Unique to its onion-shaped design is a dutch door and a big rear window that can allow cooling during the summer, while discouraging our dogs from entering when the lower portion of the dutch door is closed.
I am leaning towards the Riga IV s greenhouse, even though it is not the least expensive, because it is the only one with a dutch door that will make it easier to keep the greenhouse cool, while living with our dogs. This deal also permits the freedom to choose a gas heater if it is found desirable to do so. I plan to put the order in for the Riga greenhouse this week if nothing else arises.
The Raccoon Story
On a cold Monday afternoon in February, 2007, I was alerted by a neighbor to the fact that a raccoon was approaching my property, where three of my dogs, in my fenced-in backyard, were barking at it. The yard is enclosed by a 6-foot chain link fence. By the time I went to see what was going on, the raccoon had climbed to the top of the fence and continued to attract the attention of my 5-year-old un-neutered male White German Shepherd Dog (GSD), Merlin, and two yearling white GSD females, one of which was his puppy. Merlin was definitely in a protective mode. Before I could approach closer to corral the dogs and bring them inside, Merlin had jumped against the fence and dislodged the raccoon, which then fell to the ground inside the fence and immediately began approaching the dogs. Merlin confronted the invading raccoon and, after a pitched battle, during which Merlin was bitten, he eventually killed it. Later testing by the Pennsylvania Game Commission verified that the raccoon had been rabid, which accounted for the raccoon's strange behavior. Usually, the Commission agent later told me, raccoons stick to treed areas, are smart enough not to start fights they can easily lose, and are rarely seen in the daytime. This could easily have been a story ending like "Old Yeller," but all the dogs were up to date on their rabies shots, so they are not likely to have been affected by the rabies virus. Still, because no system is perfect, we were told to keep an eye on Merlin to make sure he doesn't exhibit any rabies symptoms over an official quarantine period of 90 days. I decided to memorialize Merlin's heroism by calling by blog "Raccoon Junction."
Planning Stages
Over the past few months (December - January - February) I have been formulating plans for my first summer garden at my new location in Mercersburg, PA. I have plenty of good land. We have about four acres that was carved out of a farm where alfalfa was being grown. The soil looks pretty good and the land is pretty flat.
We had a sunroom included in the building of our new house. I had thought it would be a good place to start my seedlings for my summer garden, but my plans were dashed when my wife, Linda, decided that the sunroom was going to be one of the places we would use for puppies. We (I, my wife, and our friend/partner Barbara) have nine German Shepherds between us, and expect to have at least three litters of puppies this Spring. That was when Plan B became necessary.
Plan B started out modestly as simply finding a place in our basement where I could start seedlings. But, my plans snowballed as I learned more about what could be done. Now, I am thinking about building a greenhouse in my backyard from a kit and setting up a hydroponics facility. I could do the hydroponics either in my basement or in the new greenhouse, or both.
I have been shopping on the internet for greenhouse kits and, more lately, for hydroponics systems and it seems that with a relatively small investment, I could do both. I may have to start out in the basement until the weather warms up sufficiently to work on putting up a greenhouse. I want to have my tomato, pepper, and other plants ready for transplanting by May 1, and don't know if I could have a greenhouse up and functional in time to use it this Spring, so a basement project seems the best plan to start with.
We had a sunroom included in the building of our new house. I had thought it would be a good place to start my seedlings for my summer garden, but my plans were dashed when my wife, Linda, decided that the sunroom was going to be one of the places we would use for puppies. We (I, my wife, and our friend/partner Barbara) have nine German Shepherds between us, and expect to have at least three litters of puppies this Spring. That was when Plan B became necessary.
Plan B started out modestly as simply finding a place in our basement where I could start seedlings. But, my plans snowballed as I learned more about what could be done. Now, I am thinking about building a greenhouse in my backyard from a kit and setting up a hydroponics facility. I could do the hydroponics either in my basement or in the new greenhouse, or both.
I have been shopping on the internet for greenhouse kits and, more lately, for hydroponics systems and it seems that with a relatively small investment, I could do both. I may have to start out in the basement until the weather warms up sufficiently to work on putting up a greenhouse. I want to have my tomato, pepper, and other plants ready for transplanting by May 1, and don't know if I could have a greenhouse up and functional in time to use it this Spring, so a basement project seems the best plan to start with.
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